The road is notorious. Hairpin curves on a cliff above the Tyrrhenian Sea, buses inching past each other with approximately two inches to spare, boats bobbing so far below they look like toys. First timers grip the door handle. Everyone stares at their phone trying to figure out if they took a wrong turn.

Here is what I know after doing this for a long time: arrival in Positano is only chaotic if no one has thought it through for you. My clients step off a nonstop flight in Rome and into a private transfer that has been waiting since before the wheels touched down. The boat with a skipper is already booked. The porters are expecting you at the dock. By the time you see those pastel houses tumbling down to the water for the first time, the only thing you have to do is look at it.

That first view, by the way, is worth everything. The majolica dome catching the afternoon light. The bougainvillea spilling over every wall. The sea going a shade of blue that has no name in English. You understand immediately why people come here and never quite leave.

This is not a town you see so much as absorb. The streets are stairs. The pace is lunch. The agenda, if you arrived with one, dissolves somewhere around the second round and the second glass of Italian rosé.

I have been putting together a proper guide to Positano: where to stay at the very top of the market, where to eat and what to order, what to shop and what to skip. Plus the full guide, formatted and ready to open on your phone or print before you go.

All of it is below for paid subscribers.

Read more

No one is wondering where you're from, what you do, or why you chose that particular style of Corazón hat. All anyone is there to do is be with their loved ones, watch the sunset, and rest very well.

That’s Mandarina.

This is not the place where you’ll make vacation friends. I would liken it to the equivalent of Forte dei Marmi rather than Tuscany, or Puglia rather than the Amalfi Coast. When you're at Mandarina, you feel like you're in Mexico, not a version of it built for Americans. The sense of place isn't just there; it's in every encounter.

There’s something that rewires your brain when you don’t see people in front of you for a significant period of time. Just the ocean, the crashing waves, the grounding sand beneath your feet. While all beaches in Mexico are public, Mandarina’s is within the gates, so there’s no public on the beach. Vogue noticed. I think that’s what I find so mesmerizing: the privacy.

I first came here in March of 2021. It was my first flight after the pandemic. A window seat on Southwest, arriving in Puerto Vallarta less than two hours after takeoff, sailing through security, hopping into the branded Mandarina car. Back then, it was just a few residences and the One&Only. I was mesmerized by the jungle, the ocean, the sandy beaches, and the general climate of the Riviera Nayarit. I wasn’t sure if it was truly magic or if I was just that excited to be on a plane and in Mexico again.

I had the opportunity to go back earlier this month, and it coincided beautifully with Lolo’s birthday. We stayed at the newly opened Rosewood Mandarina, and I was reminded that I was not in awe just because I had been grounded for a year and a half.

It is truly magical.

We arrived in Puerto Vallarta, sailed through customs, and were in our beachfront suite by 1 p.m. And that suite — truly one of the most special rooms I’ve ever been in. Ample space for a living room, dining room, bar, a powder baths, a full-size closet, a beautiful primary suite overlooking the Pacific, with a plunge pool and patio. Every room at Rosewood Mandarina has the same size pool (larger than most plunge pools), and they offer four different types of views. We were oceanfront — we could walk off our patio and be on the beach. Every morning, breakfast with our toes in the sand, delivered to our suite.

I don’t know anywhere else in Mexico where you’ll find what Rosewood Mandarina offers, thanks in part to their GM from Spain and their chef. There’s a beautiful Spanish influence — Buena Onda serves perfectly cooked paella, Toppu sits up on the hill with some of the most delicious sashimi and rolls we’ve ever had (and gorgeous views), and La Cocina Mandarina, their traditional Mexican restaurant, leaves nothing to be desired.

And when the sun starts to drop, you go up. Barra Peñasco sits at the top of the resort with completely unobstructed views — the kind of sunset that makes the table go quiet for a second. The drinks are excellent, the staff even better.

If Mandarina is calling, you know where to find me. I can walk you through suites, views, and the details that don’t make it into the magazines libby.taft@smartflyer.com.

A few things worth knowing right now: Rosewood is offering a third night free with daily breakfast, and complimentary airport transfers on stays of four nights or more through September. I can layer my own Rosewood perks on top — upgrades, credits, the works. Summer is the move.

This guide covers four days based in Saint-Germain — a day in Champagne, Monet’s water lilies, the Marais on your last morning, a picnic on the Seine. The kind of trip you’ll still be talking about in six months.

Download below. Bon voyage.

Paris — Hotel Libby — The Concierge Desk

4.66MB ∙ PDF file

Download

Download

The first time someone asks me about the Orient Express, I always pause before answering. Not because I don’t know what to say — but because where do you even start.

I did this FAM. I lived it. And I’m still not fully over it.

Here’s everything you need to know.

First — which Orient Express are we talking about?

This is where people get confused, so let’s clear it up fast.

The Orient Express brand now has three distinct experiences in Italy:

• Orient Express La Minerva — their first hotel, in Rome

• La Dolce Vita Orient Express — the train

• Orient Express Venezia — their brand new hotel in Venice, open as of March 2026

They’re all connected. They’re all extraordinary. And they can absolutely be combined into one trip — which is exactly what I’d recommend.

The Train: La Dolce Vita Orient Express

La Dolce Vita is a love letter to Italy — a luxury train that captures the timeless allure of Italian glamour and design as it journeys through the country’s most enchanting landscapes. The aesthetic pays homage to 1960s Italian design. Think: velvet, warm wood, candlelight, Campari at the bar car. It is deeply, unapologetically Italian. Tourist Italy

The train has 31 cabins total — 12 deluxe cabins, 18 suites, and the signature La Dolce Vita Suite. Your experience starts before you even board: guests begin with a private transfer to the La Dolce Vita lounge at Rome Ostiense station — a refined space designed to ease you into the experience before you step aboard. Orient ExpressEuronews

The routes — and there are many — range from a single day to five nights. A few worth knowing:

• Rome to Venice — a one-day Michelin-starred culinary journey, new for 2026 accor

• The Grand Tour — a five-day roundtrip from Rome hitting Venice, Matera, Taormina, and Palermo accor

• Rome to Istanbul — five days, four nights, for the truly adventurous accor

• The Truffle Route — Rome to Monferrato, for the food obsessed Orient Express

• Venice & Portofino — three days through Northern Italy’s most glamorous stops Orient Express

All food onboard is overseen by Michelin three-star chef Heinz Beck, who runs Rome’s only three-star restaurant. Every meal is an event — refined breakfasts, exceptional dinners, tables set with vintage silverware and fine wines in crystal glasses. Orient Express

My honest take: The Rome to Venice route is the one I’d put most of my clients on as an introduction. It’s one day — manageable, not intimidating — and it delivers the full experience. If they’re hooked (they will be), you build from there.

The Hotels

Orient Express La Minerva — Rome

The brand’s first hotel. A beautiful Roman palazzo in the heart of the city. This is your logical starting point before boarding the train — and the continuity of the brand throughout your trip is something clients feel and appreciate.

Orient Express Venezia — Venice

The brand’s second hotel opened March 30, 2026, inside the Palazzo Donà Giovannelli — a 15th-century aristocratic residence in Venice’s quieter Cannaregio district. The design preserves original frescoes, carved surfaces, and historic layouts while introducing contemporary materials — traditional Venetian “lost colours” reintroduced through textiles and finishes throughout. Orient ExpressTao Hua Yuan

Guests arriving on La Dolce Vita can disembark at Venice Santa Lucia and reach the hotel by foot or by boat. Which is the kind of detail that makes a trip feel like it was written for a film. orient-express

Rates start from $1,200/night. Part of Accor Live Limitless.

How I’d Build the Trip

For most clients, I’d structure it like this:

2-3 nights at Orient Express La Minerva in Rome (settle in, eat well, see the city) Board La Dolce Vita in Rome (choose your route based on time and appetite) Arrive in Venice and check into Orient Express Venezia 2-3 nights in Venice to close the trip

It’s a complete story. Rome to Venice, the long way — which happens to be the only way worth doing.

What to Know Before You Book

• Book early. Cabins sell quickly, especially suites and signature departures.

• Spring and fall are the ideal seasons — pleasant weather, stunning scenery, fewer crowds.

• Build in extra time at each stop — the off-train excursions are curated and worth it. Orient Express

• This is a fully bookable experience through Taft Travel— and one I’ve done personally, which means I can tell you exactly what to expect, what to pack, and which cabin is worth the upgrade.

Ready to talk about it?

Start here

Here’s what I discovered on our journey:

Rome

As a very spiritual person, I was ecstatic to arrive in the Eternal City, a city I have longed to experience. My few hours on the ground there were definitely not enough. Upon arrival at Orient Express Minerva — the first property in the brand — I was greeted by efficient bellmen in one of Rome’s most charming squares, with a cathedral to my left, the Pantheon just opposite, and a newsstand nearby. After a quick spa treatment (my go-to if arriving before noon), I ventured down to the hotel’s pop-up from Capri, Paolin, in the gorgeous dining room for lunch with my colleagues and our hosts from Orient Express and Access Italy. We dined on lemon pasta and branzino — the perfect start to day one.

Onward to our private Vatican Experience — through decades of relationships, Access Italy offers this incredible experience with the Guardian of the Liturgical Items and the Conclave. This gentleman’s office is behind the Sistine Chapel, and he is also responsible for organizing the conclave and traditional holiday services in the Vatican, including Easter and Christmas.

Seeing the Vatican through his eyes and doors was one of the most memorable experiences I will ever have. It was incredible to see the walls so few have been within. Afterward, we walked around the city for a bit and headed off to our next adventure — a private wine tasting at the famed Rome restaurant Pierluigi, followed by a glorious dinner in the dining room full of locals enjoying a fun weeknight dinner in Rome.

After a great first night’s sleep across the pond at the Orient Express Minerva, it was time to get up and get dressed for glamorous train travel to Venice.

💡 Travel note: the rooftop bar/restaurant Gigi’s is from the Paris Gigi’s brand and exudes the same exclusivity, scene, and delicious F&B — all while overlooking the Eternal City’s sunset from the terrace.

La Dolce Vita

When I was chosen for this FAM experience, I was giddy. The thought of boarding a train as a mode of transport from one pristine Italian destination to another — a dream I had only ever dared to dream.

"That's the funny thing about this business — the dreams we once only dared to dream become reality, which in turn allows us to bring those same dreams to life for our clients. I get just as excited to relive these magical moments through their travels as I did living them myself."

We arrived at the La Dolce Vita lounge at the Rome train station, where our crew was decked out in the finest Italian wardrobe you have ever seen. The lounge might as well have been a five-star hotel unto itself — beautiful furnishings and decor, a lively and talented band, and full bar service with snacks.

We stayed for about an hour, which is truly part of the experience, and then it was time to board — equally full of fanfare. The crew stood outside, greeting guests as we were escorted to our car and suite. My boarding pass read E2. My butler got me settled into my suite — champagne and goodies included — and off we went. Those first few moments were giddily exciting and felt as glamorous as I’d imagined.

“Getting on a train, traveling through Italy, enjoying multi-course meals with wine pairings while the countryside rolls by — in a suite so beautifully designed you feel like you’re stepping back in time.”

The Cabin

From E2’s perspective, I was elated to have a double-size bed with comfy, cozy linens, a duvet, and pillows, plus a nightstand and a desk with two swiveling chairs — very smartly arranged, with storage for your shoes underneath. The two-seater couch across from the desk was the perfect spot for arrivals and departures, with storage underneath as well.

The full wall behind included a closet, a mini bar with a coffee machine, and the bathroom door — all mirrored and making great use of the space. Inside the small but well-appointed bathroom was a full-size shower, toilet, and sink, with gorgeous amenities, including a Dyson hair dryer. Very important for girls on the go.

Overall, the cabin was perfect for one, or a very cozy couple. There have been mixed reviews on sleep — I, for one, took a quick nap after our excursion and had a glorious 20 minutes rocked to sleep by the moving train. When we went to bed after our night in the bar car, the train was stopped, which made it a little harder to settle. The copious amounts of champagne did help. When we woke up to the train rolling again, it was a seamless sleep straight through to Venice.

The Journey

Once on board, we received our lunch seating assignments and walked through the bar car to the dining room, where we were served a gorgeous three-course meal — including one of the most delicious lasagna bolognese dishes I’ve ever had — accompanied by wines with each course.

The actual distance by high-speed train from Rome to Venice is four hours, so Orient Express does a bit of a detour to make the journey worthwhile. We stopped about an hour outside of Siena and boarded a luxury transfer into one of Tuscany’s most beautiful towns.

Orient Express arranges the excursion for each passenger — ours included a private tour of a noble house overlooking the Piazza del Campo, home to the Palio di Siena, the ancient horse race run each year on July 2nd and August 16th, a tradition dating back to the 13th century. The home was extraordinary — and had just received a visit from Madonna herself, seated in the prettiest pink chair just days before our arrival.

Back on board, it was time for a quick refresh and dinner — another beautifully designed multi-course meal with wine pairings.

Then came the entertainment portion of the evening in the legendary bar car — a full-scale Broadway-style sing-along with live musicians and full drink service leading the fun. The crowd was hyped, dancing through the swishes and sways of the train.

“The only murder was on the dance floor.” 🚂

A perfect end to a magical day, start to finish.

Next Stop: Venezia

I woke up around 8am and opened my curtains to the Italian countryside whizzing by. I ordered a cappuccino while getting ready to disembark, my butler arriving at the cabin a few minutes before 10am to retrieve my bags. I popped into the dining car for one last bite before departure.

We pulled into Venezia Santa Lucia — Venice’s central station, sitting right on the Grand Canal — and were handed off to our water taxis for the arrival at the not-yet-opened Orient Express Venezia. A decade in the making. A property that deserves its own post, coming soon.

The Verdict

The Orient Express La Dolce Vita is not just a way to get from Rome to Venice. It’s the journey itself — a step back in time, through two of the world’s most sacred cities, with white glove service and not a single detail left unconsidered.

Orient Express offers dozens of itineraries throughout Italy, including the Grand Tour — a round-trip from Rome with stops in Venice, Matera, Taormina, and Palermo over five days and four nights. There is genuinely something for everyone.

If you’ve ever wanted to mix up the way you travel — to slow down, be draped in the finest Italian hospitality, and arrive somewhere feeling like the trip itself was the destination — this is it.

Until our next adventure,

xx Libby